This is my “go to” pattern, the one that forms the basis for the majority of my sock designs. It features the traditional styling of a heel flap and gusset, but it’s knit toe-up – so no picking up stitches for the gusset and no grafting at the toes. And best of all, it’s FREE.
I’ll warn you now, the pattern is pretty long, but that’s because it explains why it’s asking you to do things, it tells you about the different options and gives you the information to help you decide.
There’s some maths involved, but honestly not too much and you’re guided through it. It might seem like a lot of work, but take a deep breath and work through it once, then you’ll have the power to adjust any sock pattern to fit perfectly.
The pattern gives you directions for a number of standard sizes and then has a section that helps you work out the details to fit your foot and your gauge. You might never need another sock pattern again.
Oh, and did I mention, it’s FREE?
Sizes (measured around mid-foot)
- Small – 6.5”/16.5cm unstretched, 8”/20.25cm stretched
- Medium – 8”/20.25cm unstretched, 10”/25.5cm stretched
- Large – 9”/22.75cm unstretched, 11”/28cm stretched
- Extra Large – 10″/25.5cm unstretched, 12″/30.5cm stretched
Yarn Requirements
100g of any 4ply (fingering) sock yarn should be suitable. The sample was knit in Farbularasa Sockenwolle 4-fach auf Zitron Trekking in Nordlicht Wöllkchen (Northern Lights) colourway.
Additionally, the pattern provides information to allow you to use a different weight of yarn if you wish.
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Thank you for sharing this pattern! Making my first toe up socks and it’s been great help!
Thanks Leyla!
hello there for the sizing what do you mean by ‘stretched and unstretched’ does this refer to the foot or the sock or what exactly many thanks Sue
Hi Sue, thanks for asking. It’s meant to indicate the amount of stretch in your sock. Where the measurements are given like that, you’d want the size of your actual foot to be somewhere in between. Hope that helps!
Best wishes,
Jo
Hello, I am making the second size of this sock. I have knitted the gusset so that I have 16 sts on each side for the gusset and 32 sts on the instep and sole. I did the wrap and turns and finished up with 10 wrapped and 12 Centre sts but I finished up in the middle of the row and cannot figure out the rest of the instructions on page 9 from where it says “12 Centre sts ending with an even row. That means I should be purling but then do I turn and knit the wrapped sts on the other side. I’m wondering if you can explain those steps another way.
Hi Megna,
You’re doing just fine, that’s exactly right where you are. Now turn again and knit the wrapped sts all the way across to the end (taking care on the last one). Then you turn again, and purl across the wrapped stitches on the first side, so you’ll go past where you are now and on to the end. After that, there’s no more back and forward, you turn for one final time and go back to knitting in the round.
Hope this helps. If you’re on Ravelry, I’d strongly suggest joining my group there, there are lots of lovely people who can help you, and it’s easier to show photos of where you’re stuck.
Best wishes,
Jo
I am fairly new at making socks but I have worked swiftly along to the point in the gusset increase where is says, “you will now make one final set of increases in the gussets.” I do not understand 2nd needle instructions at all! What is (3,3,3)? And [M1R, K2] 6 times. Is that 6 more rows? I am making the small size. I do know what a M1R is but don’t understand this sequence.
Thank you for any help you may provide.
Hi Mary,
This is all pretty standard notation, I’m sorry if it caused you confusion. When an instruction is written with the numbers as x (y, z) then that’s a number for each size – s (m, l) – so if you’re doing small you will k1. [M1R, K2] 6 times is all in the same row – M1R, K2, M1R, K2, etc.
I hope this helps. If you are still struggling I’d suggest you ask at your LYS, or maybe join my group in Ravelry if you’re a member.
Best wishes,
Jo
I came here for this very problem too. Why do your instructions have us suddenly M1R on the side we’ve been doing M1L on all through the gusset increases?
Hi Laura,
Simply because I found it gave the best (neatest) result when I was testing and writing the original pattern.
Over the years, I’ve come to think that the difference is negligible, so by all I means use the other if you prefer, or experiment and see what works best for you.
Best wishes,
Jo
Thank you so much for the pattern, explanations, links to technique ‘how to’. I am on the leg section of my first ever toe up sock. Now my favourite sock pattern
Thank you Margaret, that’s very kind of you to say.
Best wishes,
Jo
Jo, thank you so much for this pattern! Once I found it I’ve used it as the basis for ALL my socks, just adding in decorative elements to the top of foot/front of leg, etc. I’m a math geek as well as lover of tightly knit socks (US 0 needles) so I use the back page to do the math for my socks and they fit like a glove!!
Thanks Jennifer! I’m so pleased you like it, and really appreciate you taking the time to let me know.
Best wishes,
Jo
I am having a problem working W&T. Can these be substituted with another type of Turn.. Thank you for your help..
Sorry Minni, I’ve only just seen this. Yes, you can use any type of turn you prefer.
I am still fairly new to knitting and am going to attempt making socks.
Please bear with me as I ask a very basic question.
I’ve never made a gauge swatch before. How big does it need to be? How many stitches should I cast on?
I guess this is my first challenge before attempting the actual sock!
Hi Rose,
Most knitting books will tell you that you should make a swatch that’s 4″ (10cm) square, so to give yourself a bit of extra at the sides so you can measure properly, that would be about 40 stitches. The problem with that is that you’d probably be knitting flat, and a lot of people get a different gauge knitting in the round to knitting flat, and it’s the”in the round” gauge you’re interested in.
I’m going to suggest something different to you, which might sound a bit radical, but it’s what a lot of sock knitters do. Don’t do a swatch. Just assume that it’s going to be fine and cast on. Work all the way to the end of the toe and then stop. Do you like the fabric you’ve made? Does it seem sturdy enough for a sock (you don’t want it too loose or it won’t last). If not, then start again with a different size needle. If yes, then you’ve got your gauge swatch in your hands, and it’s knit in the round! Measure what you’ve done, work out your gauge, and then plug that into the calculator to find out the numbers to make the perfect sock for you. You might find that your toe needs a few more or fewer stitches, but that’s fine, just adjust it to make it right, then off you go with the rest of your sock.
Hope that helps, happy knitting,
Jo
Hi Jo,
I’m having trouble with the gusset of this pattern. I’m working 2 at a time, toe up of course , with some yarn I dyed and spun myself so have used the table at the end for my numbers.
I don’t understand where the marker goes with the gusset increases. After doing all the increases my markers are simply 1 st in from both ends.
I also don’t understand Next round: 1st needle, 2nd needle and then again Next round 1 st needle, 2 nd needle. I assume this refers to the different socks as it states …make one final set of increases in the gussets.
Hi Rhonda, no this is all about one sock, just the two ends of a circular needle, so “1st needle” is the first half of the stitches, “2nd needle” is the second half.
With the gusset markers, when you first put them in, they’re one stitch in from the edge, but when you make the increases, you do that outside the markers, so the number of stitches between the markers is always the same.
I hope that makes sense?
I was unsure about those last increases but I persevered and added markers either side of the central original stitch count and went on from there.
Despite fudging one or two stitches, it worked out!
Hi Rhonda, that’s it exactly! Great! I’m so glad you persevered.
Can I let you into a little secret though? It doesn’t really matter where you put the increases, your sock will still fit just the same, magic eh?
Best wishes,
Jo
Hi Jo,
Thanks for the great pattern and the fab worksheet at the end (maths geek here!)
However I’m puzzled about the references on p4 to the SSK and the P2TOG
“On the final remaining wrapped stitch, work the wrap and SSK at the same time.” Ditto the purl row after.
But there are no SSKs or P2TOGs on earlier rows.
To what do these refer, please?
Many thanks,
Fay xx
Hi Fay,
I’m glad you like it, have you checked out the calculators here on my blog?
I can see how that could be confusing, maybe better wording would be “work the wrap and perform an SSK at the same time”. The detailed instructions for this action are in the highlighted box just below.
Hope that helps,
Jo
Thank you for your kind and helpful reply. Ty VM xxx